Polish version

What do you need:
- a foamed PVC sheet (3mm gauge),
- a tube of PVC glue,
- a sandpaper sheet,
- a box cutter,
- a ruler,
- an unit for which you will be doing a movement tray,
- things that you will be using for finishing the movement tray like static grass, rocks, sand, skulls or other plastic addings.

If you prepared everything from the list above, let’s explain why mentioned things are the most important.

PVC - is a very good material to do bases (it doesn’t mean that you can only do these kind of things – personally I think it is a fine solution to sculpt small addings to the battle scenery or bases itself). Sometimes it tends to be too flexible but it never gets too hard. It is important to be careful when you are gluing parts together. You should avoid putting too much glue because it can bend the whole tray after drying off. From my personal experience it sometimes happens with very large bases for mockups in which I have used PVA glue - ordinary cyanoacrylate glue did not cause me such problem.

Why a PVC sheet of 3 mm gauge? The answer is simple: Games Workshop’s bases have exactly 3 mm gauge so our model will look like the original one.

Ruler and an unit or model for which we will be doing a movement tray sound silly but they are very important. Everyone who played once knows that the cavalry is treated as if it was on a base of 25x50mm width. In fact, it has different size. Sometimes it happens that our models in the unit can not be connected by edges because parts of another model are in the way. If we leave that without any actions, the results will be dramatic. Our models will not fit in the movement tray and look messily.

First thing I always do is to find the right piece of PVC. It is also good idea to manage some space for work. I set up the unit and check what exactly are its measurements. It is better to leave some additional space just in case.

The next important thing is to leave "extra width" for a movement tray. In the 8th edition, the officials rules have clarified that the tray does not count when you are measuring the range distance. It is always a good idea to inform your opponent when you are playing a game using older editions’ rules. It helps players to avoid further misunderstanding because everyone does different size trays. I prefer doing 10mm width tray because it raises the unit and gives an illusion of having it bigger than in real. Additionally, it does not interfere with the gameplay. After all measurements it looks like this:

Remember - never trust yourself! It is a good idea to check one more time if the unit fits perfectly before gluing. The general thought is: when you screw up something at the beginning, it will come out at the end of our work and causes further problems .

If you have more movements trays, check each tray with corresponding unit.

Next thing is sides - I have mentioned that we should leave additional space around. Time to draw the lines.

At a simple level, it is 4 strips of 5mm wide with the length of the longer side of the tray. Firstly, I cant it and then cut off the main piece (I am most comfortable with doing it in this way). This how looks a piece before the surgery

How it looks like after honning…

…and after cutting off.

Time to deburr the sharp edges of the base with sandpaper, which is another step to have professional looking movement trays. The material is easy to processing.

When they are smooth enough, we glue the sides. Remember! Your unit champion is controlling you and watches every your move. Don’t make any mistake, otherwise he will gladly leaves his movement tray during a game.

Firstly, we glue the two longer sides and then cut the two shorter ones perfectly (the smaller the crack the better). Put glue only on parts which you really want to stick because prominent elements will be cut.

It has to look like this:

It can hang out just like that: (the Champion accepts it)

When everything is ready - it's time for another checking whether the unit is fitting properly .You will not correct it later, PCV glue really glues heavily ...

When it dries, we cut off what is sticking out:

The unit presentation inside the movement tray:

Everything is perfect! Now, you can paint it along with the unit as the Champions orders you to do:

At last, we can finish the movement tray by adding some rocks, sand or other plastic elements and glue it to the surface of the tray. It is good idea to keep coherence with the bases so we do it in the same way as we do bases for the unit.

When you think about arranging the models on the tray, remember to put them always in the same order. Thanks to that you are sure that they will not hook to each other. (a good idea is to numerate them - simply, write small numbers on the bottom sides of the bases).

An army without movement trays is like an army without the general. I hope that with those tips your unit will look magnificent. Stay in touch for more tutorials! Cheers!